karen
Junior Grey Lover
[red]Tiger and Fiona's Mom[/red]
Posts: 226
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Post by karen on Apr 5, 2007 8:06:06 GMT -5
Last night was Fiona's first night at obedience class. What a nightmare that turned out to be. She didn't want anything to do with sitting on command and when asked to do so would jump up on me (resulting in my chest and stomach being scratched), run around to the front of me and on one occasion snap at me. After class when the instructor tried to get her to sit she also snapped at him.
Also, I don't think she liked the feel of the choke chain so I am wondering if there is something else we could use that would have the same effect as the choke?
I took treats to use during the class but she didn't want them so there was no way of rewarding her good behaviour.
The night started out bad when she didn't want to get in the car and continued with her and I not having a good time like we should have been.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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rhyddpe
Junior Grey Lover
Posts: 105
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Post by rhyddpe on Apr 5, 2007 8:28:47 GMT -5
I don't have any advice as we haven't started obedience yet, however we are in desparate need. Where are you going for obedience? I will be interested to hear anyone's suggestions re: reward. Zuzu doesn't care less for treats when we are out.
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karen
Junior Grey Lover
[red]Tiger and Fiona's Mom[/red]
Posts: 226
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Post by karen on Apr 5, 2007 9:26:25 GMT -5
We are going to classes in Thameville. I took my other grey, Tiger, and everything was great. Guess I was expecting the same from Fiona.
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Post by jiffer on Apr 5, 2007 10:44:24 GMT -5
DON'T USE A CHOKE CHAIN!!!!!!
Tell your instructor that you are going to use a martingale. If they don't allow martingales then don't use that trainer! A choke chain can do a lot of damage to a greyhound.
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Post by tinastroops on Apr 5, 2007 10:48:31 GMT -5
My first ask before starting class is if the Trainer has any greyhound experience
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karen
Junior Grey Lover
[red]Tiger and Fiona's Mom[/red]
Posts: 226
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Post by karen on Apr 5, 2007 14:39:27 GMT -5
I use a martindale on her now but that isn't working either. When shopping at Pet Smart I have seen a greyhound training collar - the same as a martindale but has some chain on it where you fasten the leash. I was thinking about trying this with her.
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karen
Junior Grey Lover
[red]Tiger and Fiona's Mom[/red]
Posts: 226
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Post by karen on Apr 5, 2007 14:49:46 GMT -5
Sorry I meant martingale.
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Post by tara on Apr 5, 2007 14:52:31 GMT -5
If the martingale is not working try a GREYHOUND no-pull harness. I would not use any collar with chain on my grey and NEVER a choke chain. Ty doesn't sit either but we have taught him the stop command which means stand in place not moving. Your instructor should definetly have grey experience.
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Post by GreyPoopon on Apr 5, 2007 16:15:43 GMT -5
How is the martingale not working? Is she pulling? Slipping out of it? Ignoring you? The solution depends on what the issue is.
As for treats, try something softer and smellier: processed cheese, chicken weiners (if your pupper can eat chicken), roast beef....
When she snaps, you can tighten the leash and tell her firmly to "knock it off". However, it's much better not to trigger that reaction in the first place.
Try using baby steps to get what you want. With sit, for example, if you happen to see her sit (to scratch, or shift position, or whatever), say "Good Sit!", praise like crazy, and if you have a treat handy, give it to her. The next step is to try to lure a sit with food, either from a stand or a down.
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Post by sdsandiford on Apr 5, 2007 19:01:24 GMT -5
Sorry to hear that your first class with Fiona wasn't that great. I've also heard that choke chains and greys don't mix. Of our three, only Dave has been to an organized obedience class. His regular martigale worked fine, but Dave was a VERY slow learner when it came to the sit command. Originally, the instructor told me to treat him just for tilting his head up (without body movement).... Soooo embarassing! Also, the instructor suggested that giving Dave a soft surface to practice sitting on might also help. For the first little while, I took along a small blanket with me. After the second class Dave was not anywhere close to sitting, but he had calmed down enough to allow me to hold a treat over his nose while I manipulated him into a sit. I think it took him several weeks (almost the full length of the class) before he'd do it on his own, but he's a pro now!
It sounds like you might have to take baby steps with Fiona, but I'm sure she'll catch on. If she's not interested in food, you can try a small toy, or even a simple plastic squeaker (many pet stores carry these). I've used these squeakers to get my dog's attention. For our first few classes, Dave was too stressed out to take most food treats (he'll normally respond well to food). I found that GreyPoopon's suggestion to offer something irresistible also worked. Although I can't remember the name of them, you can use freeze-dried liver treats. They are expensive, but most dogs LOVE these.
Don't give up on her! Good luck.
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Post by GreyPoopon on Apr 6, 2007 9:04:06 GMT -5
Also, the instructor suggested that giving Dave a soft surface to practice sitting on might also help. For the first little while, I took along a small blanket with me. This is a very good point. Neither Betsy nor Edie was at all comfortable sitting on pavement or concrete during our practice walks. Betsy is now OK for a bit; Edie is not too bad on pavement but quakes on concrete. Edie also hates to stay "down" on the rubber mats in the training hall, although sometimes she will get tired and sack out on her own. Even after three courses, I still use a towel or my coat if she has to stay down for more than a couple of seconds. Another problem area, particularly for Betsy, was recalls ("come"). Betsy tended to stay near the instructor "restraining" her--showing leash respect to the instructor--rather than respond to the recall. The instructor had to just quietly fade away so Betsy wasn't so torn. Both of my girls started slowly--not just on sit but on everything. Betsy was especially hard to work with, because the whole retirement thing shocked her into a near-catatonic state. But we just plugged away, and caught up by the end of the course.
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Post by samrob on Apr 6, 2007 19:48:50 GMT -5
I don't have any advice as we haven't started obedience yet, however we are in desparate need. Where are you going for obedience? I will be interested to hear anyone's suggestions re: reward. Zuzu doesn't care less for treats when we are out. It took Hope months before she would eat any treats outside of the house. We found Benny-bulleys (sp?) and roll-over to be the best. Have patience with the "sit" it can be a very difficult movement for the greys, and for some their hips can be sore with that movement.
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karen
Junior Grey Lover
[red]Tiger and Fiona's Mom[/red]
Posts: 226
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Post by karen on Apr 10, 2007 8:47:16 GMT -5
I did not know that the choke was a bad thing. I had used it with Tiger when we went to class and had no problem. But then again he has a totally different temperment then Fiona. Fiona and I were out walking again yesterday, with the martingale collar, and she did not want anything to do with sitting. It was just a big fight every time I tried.
This week we will use the martingale at class, I will let the instructor know that chokes are bad but would like to let him know exactly why they are. Can someone explain this to me so I can let him know.
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karen
Junior Grey Lover
[red]Tiger and Fiona's Mom[/red]
Posts: 226
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Post by karen on Apr 10, 2007 8:56:56 GMT -5
Another thing I forgot to ask was if I should bring her muzzle to class with me. The reason I ask this is that when the instructor tried to get her to sit she attempted to bite him. He asked me if she had a muzzle and if so could I bring it to our next class. He would like to work with her which is fine with me but I don't want her to become more frightened then she already seems to be.
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Post by rocco's parents on Apr 10, 2007 11:23:27 GMT -5
Karen, there are only two ways to put on a choke-chain collar: with the moving end over the dog's neck (right way), or under the dog's neck (wrong way). When the moving part of the chain comes from under the dog's neck, the chain doesn't release easily when the leash is slackened. Since the collar's usefulness as a training tool relies on a quick snap-and-release action, a collar that's put on wrong is useless. The collar is meant to be loose at all times except for the occasional split-second tightening to correct a dog's behavior. That said, it still should not be used on greys not just because it is cruel, and not just to greys, but their lack of body fat there is no protection should something go wrong, you would hit all muscle and nerves etc.
Hope that helps and you can explain that to the trainer.
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